Byline: LUCAS HOLLWEG

I wore my standard summer slobbing outfit of shorts and Birkies for the first time a couple of weeks back. It was rather nice. Nice for me, at least. I don't know if the passers-by caught in the arctic glare of my legs were quite as positive about the experience. But, still, it felt like summer - a time for sandals instead of socks.

It's also about now that my appetite changes gear. Once the balance of seasonal produce shifts decisively from roots to shoots, salads become my staple diet. I eat more fish - which somehow suggests itself more naturally as the weather warms up - and I find myself gravitating towards meat that can be quickly flashed in the pan rather than simmered for hours in the oven.

So, it's sunshine food this week. I know I may be jumping the gun a little, but I'm already dreaming of holidays, and some of these recipes are inspired by places in the sun. The others are simply a riff on the perky flavours of late spring and early summer; good things to throw on the table with crusty bread and a glass of something dry and white. I'll leave the shorts and sandals up to you.

MACKEREL IN WHITE WINE AND HERBS

This aromatic pickled fish is - in its tinned form - a staple of every French larder. The homemade version is even better. It needs a night in the fridge, so start ahead of time.

Serves 4-8

8 mackerel fillets

Sea salt and pepper

2 red onions, peeled and thinly sliced

1 carrot, peeled and thinly sliced

2 cloves of garlic, peeled but whole

3 sprigs of thyme

2 bay leaves

2 cloves

15 black peppercorns

500ml white wine

125ml white-wine vinegar

2 strips of lemon peel, about 5cm long

Chopped parsley, to serve

Sprinkle the fleshy side of the fillets with salt and leave to one side for about 30 minutes. Heat the oven to 220C/Gas Mark 7. Put everything except the fish, lemon peel and parsley in a saucepan, add 150ml water and bring to a boil. Bubble away for 10 minutes, then add the lemon and bubble for 5 minutes more.

Wipe the salt off the fish with a bit of kitchen paper and lay the fillets in a shallow ovenproof dish, in a single layer if possible. Pour the hot liquid over the top, along with all the bits, and put in the oven for 8-9 minutes until the fish is just cooked through. Remove and leave to cool - you can skin the fillets at this point if you want, though I don't bother - then cover and put in the fridge, at least overnight and for up to 2 days. Check the seasoning. Scatter with the parsley and eat with crusty bread and butter.

BROAD BEAN, RADISH AND GOAT'S CHEESE SALAD

These late-spring flavours point towards summer. There are broad beans around from Europe now, if not from Britain. In any case, you could always use frozen....