MENTION Brazil and the minds of travel magazine junkies conjure up images of ample-bottomed, amber-colored mulattas strolling Ipanema Beach in thong bikinis, or a parade of elaborately costumed revelers carelessly dancing the lambada into the night during carnival, the bacchanalian festival that lures thousands of tourists to Rio de Janeiro each year.

That's the glimpse of Brazil offered through the filtered lenses of guarded tour guides. It is a travelogue view that shows off the breathtaking topography of the Amazon and the seductive rhythms of the samba.

Conspicuously absent from this view, however, is a true sense of the cultural diversity and racial complexity that are part and parcel of this, the country with the largest population of African descendants (60 million) in the Western Hemisphere. In fact, Brazil's Black population is second in size only to that of Nigeria (pop. 115 million).

Yet, according to the rehearsed blather of many of the country's official mouthpieces, Brazil is the world's one true melting pot--a tropical paradise where the cultures and complexions of the land's Portuguese invaders (who did not officially abolish slavery until 1888), their African captives and the Indian natives from a melange of 140 million people who are uniquely and unitedly Brazilian.

"There is nothing here like the racism you have in the United States," says Adriana Lopez, as she escorts a visitor from Rio de Janeiro International Airport to the lush hotels that line the rich and touristy Copacabana area of the city. "Racism like you know it is illegal here. Black, White, Brown, Yellow, here we are all just Brazilians."

That is the party line: promotion of the myth that a Brazilian national character supersedes any and all racial distinctions. Speak with Brazilians of color, however, and one learns that the country's melting pot is more like a boiling cauldron wherein the suppressed cultural, religious and political identity of Black and Brown Brazilians is now bubbling to the surface.

Race in Brazil, where amalgamation has colored the population, is not the cut-and-dried proposition that it is in America. In a 1983 census from example, when Brazilians were asked to state their racial identification, many respondents labeled themselves not according to "race" but along a color continuum that included such descriptions as "yellow-brown" or "light tan." Census takers recorded more than 100 such categories.

Demographers estimate that of the nearly 80 million Brazilians who classify themselves as White, as many as 15 percent have enough of a trace of African ancestry to be considered Black by American standards. Internationally acclaimed actress Sonia Braga (a frequent guest on television's The Cosby Show and co-star of the movie The...